Few roads in Santa Barbara County offer as much drama in so few miles as East Camino Cielo, the ridge-top route that winds from San Marcos Pass toward La Cumbre Peak and Gibraltar Road.
As hinted by its name, the route offers a breathtaking — almost heavenly — drive, every time.
From the roughly 2,250-foot summit of San Marcos Pass to the top of 3,985-foot La Cumbre Peak, each turn along East Camino Cielo opens a new vista: the Santa Barbara coastline, Santa Cruz Island and, on a clear day, even Santa Rosa and San Miguel Islands.
On the backcountry side of the road lies a vast, mostly undeveloped interior, much of it dedicated wilderness. Some of these remote sites are familar to most, such as Lake Cachuma and Figueroa Mountain. Other spots, such as Little Pine Mountain and the Big Pine cliffs are lesser known due to the foot travel or mountain biking required to reach them. Taken together, the landscape suggests a wildness and isolation rarely found so close to civilization.
I lived on Camino Cielo for more than a decade, through most of the 1980s and into the early 1990s. The home was a large two-story house on the back side of the crest, a quarter-mile or so east of San Marcos Pass — a perfect spot for quick access to the backcountry.
Almost every afternoon, I would head out on my Tim Neenan-built Lighthouse bike, often to Knapp’s Castle for the views, then down Snyder Trail to Paradise Road. From there, I would loop back by way of Cold Spring Tavern for a well-deserved beer before climbing back to the house.
On weekends, friends would join me for longer rides over La Cumbre Peak and east to Angostura Pass, then down to Gibraltar Dam and the Santa Ynez River for a splash in one of the pools. When we felt especially adventurous, we would continue another 4 to 5 miles to the back side of Cold Spring Trail for a soak in Little Caliente Hot Springs before heading home.
Over time, Camino Cielo came to feel like an old friend. I knew its twists and turns by heart: the rush of wind, the chaparral slipping past, the red-tailed hawk pursued by smaller birds, and turkey vultures circling the road in search of their next meal.
The final treat would come in turning back toward home, coasting downhill for miles, buffeted by a delicious, cool breeze on my face.
From the Mountaintop
Most of us see the Santa Ynez Mountains from below, as the familiar backdrop to daily life. But viewed from the top, this relationship changes completely.
Nowhere is this transformation more visceral than from La Cumbre Peak, directly in front of the lookout tower, peering across the coastal plain to the Channel Islands. Each time I visit I am struck anew by the enormity of the landscape below. The coastline, stretching endlessly in either direction, puts our human activities into perspective.
From above, there are no sounds of the city, just wind and the sense that although life down below often feels complicated, our day-to-day is small in comparison to the natural landscape.
La Cumbre Peak is also one of the best places to understand the sweep of the whole Santa Ynez Mountain range. The drop-off toward the coast is almost vertical, with direct views into the upper end of Mission Canyon. Across a few ridges you can see the Cold Spring drainages, Montecito Peak and, in the distance beyond Carpinteria, the 1,500-foot rise of Rincon Mountain.
A short scramble to the west opens another view: down into San Roque Canyon, across the Goleta Valley and, roughly 15 air miles away, toward Broadcast Peak and Santa Ynez Peak.
But the coastal view is only half the story. If looking south over the Santa Barbara frontcountry helps put our built environment into perspective, a 180 degree turn provides an even more powerful view into the immensity of our untouched local backcountry.
Into the interior
To the north, behind the mountains, the sense of civilization falls away quickly. Few roads are visible and there are no obvious structures — only a maze of ridges and ravines, shadowed peaks and meandering creeks. The entire Santa Barbara backcountry is visible in one sweeping view.
Along East Camino Cielo, road pullouts offer wide-open looks into this interior world: the Santa Ynez River, Gibraltar Dam, and farther upriver, Jameson Reservoir. Each stop reveals the backcountry from a slightly different angle, and each one deepens the sense of how much lies just beyond the ridge.
Due to East Camino Cielo being the entryway to both front and backcountry, the number of excursions — whether by foot, bike or vehicle — are nearly endless. This I can say with confidence as it has taken me decades of exploration in order to feel confident saying there is not a trail I have not hiked, cycled, or backpacked.
Before you go
East Camino Cielo is a narrow mountain road with steep drop-offs, cyclists, hikers, changing weather and limited cell service. Road conditions, trail access, fire closures and private-property restrictions can change without notice. Check current Los Padres National Forest and Santa Barbara County road information before heading out. Bring water and come prepared.
There are two good ways to explore East Camino Cielo, depending on what kind of day you want.
For the classic drive, start at San Marcos Pass on the western end and travel east along the ridge in the afternoon, when the sun is at your back and the views open gradually toward La Cumbre Peak and Gibraltar Road.
For hiking, it often makes more sense to begin from Gibraltar Road on the eastern end, especially in the morning. Several of the best side trips are closer to that end of the ridge, including Forbush Flats, Montecito Peak and the Romero loop.
East Camino Cielo drive guide (starting from the west)
Start — San Marcos Pass
Head up State Route 154, known as “the pass”, eventually taking a right onto East Camino Cielo.
0.1 mile — San Marcos Fire Station
Proceed past the U.S. Forest Service station. If biking, there is a parking area next to the station where you can typically park before your ride.
1.75 miles — The Pines Trailhead
Look for an open parking area on the left with a large pine tree in the center. A short hike up and down a small saddle leads to a picturesque forest of pines and a series of wind-sculpted caves. This is an excellent short hike and a great place for kids to scramble on the rocks.
2 miles — Fremont Ridge Road
This jeepway is a great introduction to the backcountry side of the ridge and blooms each Spring.
2.5 miles — Painted Cave Road
The Painted Cave rock art panel is approximately a mile down Painted Cave Road, which winds past what was once Jane Fonda’s Laurel Springs Ranch and the Painted Cave community. For more information, consult the Chumash Painted Cave State Historic Park.
3.75 miles — Knapp’s Castle turnoff
The incredible stone remnants of Knapp’s Castle have been incorporated into a new home, and the actual site is now off-limits. Even so, the nearby jeepway will take you just past the property as you head down the valley en route to connecting with Snyder Trail.
6 miles— Arroyo Burro Road
This jeepway leads down to the Santa Ynez River. Although closed to vehicles, it provides easy access to interior views. The back side of Arroyo Burro Trail begins just down this road.
8 miles — La Cumbre Peak
The 3,985-foot peak supplies some of the best views in the area along with picnic tables and plenty of boulders for children — or adults — to explore on the coast side of the crest.
For those with a serious sense of adventure, it is possible to work your way down the front side of the mountain, across a saddle and up to the top of Cathedral Peak, a 300-foot spire with a small trail register nestled in a mound of rocks. This is not a casual hike and should be attempted only by experienced hikers or climbers with route-finding skills, proper footwear and sun protection.
9.2 miles — Angostura Pass
Although not open for vehicle travel, the jeepway provides an opportunity for an easy walk down to expansive views of the upper Santa Ynez Recreation Area, as well as access to Matias Potrero Trail, a favorite of mountain bikers.
9.3 miles — Tunnel Trail
Tunnel Trail is very popular with mountain bikers, but hikers can also travel about a mile down the trail to Mission Falls, one of the best spots for lunch or quiet time.
10 miles — Gibraltar Road
On the drive down, look for Gibraltar Rock, a large, ice cube-shaped boulder made of extremely resistant Matilija Sandstone. You can often see climbers there testing their skills — and courage.
Continuing east from Gibraltar Road
If you head farther east from the Gibraltar Road/East Camino Cielo intersection, reset your mileage to zero.
3.75 miles — Forbush Flats/Montecito Peak
On the front side of the crest, Cold Spring Trail leads about a mile down to Montecito Peak, where a scramble up its side leads to a flat top with panoramic views of the coastline. On the back side of the crest, the trail will take you down to a beautiful meadow lined with apple trees that mark an old homestead site.
6.5 miles — Romero Trailhead
This path follows an old jeepway downhill to the point where it crosses Romero Canyon Trail. The upper loop follows the canyon trail uphill to the crest and then west via the original Camino Cielo trail, taking you back to your vehicle.
Author’s note
Ray Ford’s comprehensive guide to the East Camino Cielo trails and experiences mentioned in this article, is free to download here.
