The drive across West Camino Cielo is a bit over 15 miles, the first five of which are on paved road. This first part is easy going that many are probably familiar with, whether for a trip to the Playground or just beyond at Lizard’s Mouth.
You may even have ventured a bit further to practice your skills at either the Winchester Gun Club or Skeet area, which are both open to the public on weekends.
But that’s where the pavement ends and one of Santa Barbara’s most scenic challenges begins.
For the next nine miles you’ll be on dirt all the way — and not the soft forgiving kind. Most of the trail will be rocky, gullied and so narrow that running into someone coming the opposite way can mean backing up on sections steep enough — and near enough to the edge — to give you pause.
By the time you pass the turnoff to Santa Ynez Peak, you’ll feel a bit like you’ve been through the spin cycle of a washing machine. Now, if you’re the driver, it’s likely you’ll love every minute of this. If you’re the passenger, it might be a different story, as you’re seatbelt will likely be the only thing keeping you from repeatedly hitting your head on the roof!
Word to the wise: let passengers get out and walk a bit if things get too bumpy.
Finally, be forewarned that this jeep road is for high-clearance vehicles only and, better yet, those with four-wheel drive!
Full immersion Around the Corner
While the trail’s first several twists and turns are relatively mild, reality will hit about a quarter mile in when you get to your first turnout. It’s the perfect lookout spot to see what lies in store.
The views are a blessing as they let you see straight downhill to Winchester Saddle and west to Broadcast Peak in the far distance. Off to the right are first glimpses of Lake Cachuma to the north and to the left you may be able to spot a bit of the coastline to the south. Straight ahead you’ll see a narrow swath of the mountain crest devoid of vegetation.
Firefighters will tell you this is known as a “fuel break”. Though it does help to slow or prevent fires from jumping across the ridge, a fuel break’s primarily purpose is to serve as an accessible staging area for fire crews to safely set up equipment — something that would be impossible if it were covered with chaparral.
Most recently, this fuel break served to hold the 2017 Whittier Fire from crossing into Bear Canyon on the inland side of the crest, thereby preventing the flames from rushing down Winchester canyon into homes along the western part of Cathedral Oaks Road.
Beyond this vantage point, the climbing begins. It’s about 1,600 feet of vertical elevation to the top of Broadcast Peak, which you can spot in the far distance. But, given the number of ups and downs along the way, you’ll be logging close to twice that elevation gain by the time you drive past it.
Mountain Driving
Given the off-road nature of the path, it’s likely won’t see many others during your West Camino Cielo drive. This will be especially true if you go on a weekday, which is highly recommended, given how much of the road is basically a one-lane adventure. Even so, you must be vigilant at each blind turn, expecting that cars or motorcycles could be around the corner.
Don’t forget your off-road trail etiquette — downhill drivers must yield. As an example, the truck pictured below is going uphill and therefore has right of way.
Keep in mind that it’s much safer to reverse up a hill than it is to reverse down a slope. Passing other cars on West Camino Cielo is also complicated by the thick chaparral that crowds the roadside and often makes it difficult to see what is ahead (or behind). Be sure to take appropriate precautions such as honking at dangerous corners, driving slowly, and wearing seatbelts at all times.
West Camino Cielo drive guide (starting from Hwy. 154)
Start — Kinevan Road/West Camino Turnoff
Head up State Route 154, known as “the pass”, and take the turnoff for Kinevan Road. Use caution when you move into the lefthand turn lane as oncoming traffic coming down from the Pass can be driving extremely fast.
0.2 mile — Kinevan Road Turnoff
Kinevan Road is a beautiful canyon road that leads up to the top of San Marcos Pass and provides a unique glimpse of what the road was like before the state highway was constructed. Bicyclists often use this route as an alternative to staying on Hwy. 154 where the traffic speed increases dramatically.
2.4 miles — The Playground Trailhead
Look for the small pullout where the trailhead to the Playground begins.
3.7 miles — Lizard’s Mouth
There are several informal access points to Lizard’s Mouth. Look for the main trail sign and please, pack your trash out with you and respect the area.
3.9 miles — Winchester Gun Club & Skeet Shooting
The Gun Club
3.9 miles — Pavement Ends
Buckle up, it’s going to be a bumpy ride.
4.7 miles — Winchester Saddle
Winchester Saddle is the lowest point on the trip across West Camino Cielo and the start of just under 8 miles of dirt road that will take you from 2,500 feet in elevation to over 4,000 feet and offer some of the best views on both sides of the mountains.
6.5 miles — The Rock Garden
This is a unique set of boulder fields that are a bit difficult to get down to, but a blast to explore.
8.0 Miles — Condor Peak
The 3,985-foot peak hangs out over the coastline near Dos Pueblos Ranch. A very brushy off-trail route leads out to the top of the point, about 2.6 miles out and back.
8.1 miles — Memorial to “JB”
This beautiful memorial is dedicated to Jonathan Garcia-Bogarin who died nearby when his truck rolled over, pinning him underneath. The words there are heart-breaking: “YOUR WINGS WERE READY BUT OUR hearts WERE NOT.” It serves as a poignant reminder of the dangers of this road.
8.7 miles — The Pines
The Pines are perhaps the only straight and (nearly) level stretch of dirt along the entire road. Prior to the Whittier Fire in July 2017, the meadow served as a forest oasis, the wide-open flats providing one of the best camping spots along the jeepway. The picture below is from before the fire; sadly the area looks quite different now.
10.9 miles — Tequepis Trailhead
The Tequepis Trail begins near Circle V Camp (located across from Lake Cachuma County Park), climbs steadily for 2,300 feet up the north side of the Santa Ynez Mountains and eventually reaches the ridge east of Broadcast Peak at the perfect spot to catch an ocean breeze and island views. The trail is also one of the great local downhill mountain bike rides and with a shuttle the ride across the crest and down is a true experience. A short hike over the hill to see what you can see will also be well worth it.
11.7 miles — Historic Gato Trail
A century or more ago, the Gato and Tequepis trails formed an important route connecting the Gaviota Coast and Santa Ynez Valley. Today the trail has been long abandoned and is almost impossible to spot from the jeepway but for those who have the need — and expertise — to explore the Gato Trail, bring a pair of loppers and have at it.
11.9 miles — Broadcast Peak
The 4,030 foot tall Broadcast Peak in Santa Barbara County is the second highest point in the Santa Ynez Mountains, and is best known for the antenna and transmitter site clustered on its summit. The peak sits above the coastal fog and has long been used for broadcasting because its elevation gives signals clear reach along the Central Coast.
Broadcast Peak can be reached via trails and rough access roads and on a clear day offers 180-degree views of the Pacific Ocean, Lake Cachuma, and nearby peaks.
13.2 miles — Santa Ynez Peak
At just under 4,300 feet, Santa Ynez Peak is the highest summit in the Santa Ynez Mountains and just a stone’s throw from its eastern partner, both of which provide dramatic viewpoints along the Gaviota coastline. During the Whittier Fire much of the vegetation surrounding the peak was destroyed, including hundreds of trees in the ravines on both sides of the peak.
13.6 miles — Spaceport Dome
From the road leading up to Santa Ynez Peak the intense yellows of the California Goldenbanner frame the view. Beyond, Gaviota Peak is visible in the hazy distance and a few miles further one can see the western end of the Santa Ynez Mountains near Point Conception. You might also spot a silvery dome-like structure that has the look of an observatory but is actually part of the Vandenberg Space Port.
19.2 miles — Refugio Pass
Take it slow on the drive down from the Space Port now that you’re back on pavement. Via bicycle this is one of the great free rides anywhere, 4,000 feet of downhill with no pedaling needed—though your brakes better be in excellent condition.
The reward just before you reach the Pass is a perfect ending to the West Camino Cielo drive. The last mile meanders along the back side of the crest and through some of the most lush vegetation these mountains have to offer. The Crown Jewels are the gigantic Manzanita “trees” and even larger Madrone trees, a remnant of an ancient local climate that was much wetter than today. While abundant in Northern California and Oregon the Madrone exist here only in shaded pockets on the back side of the crest in places like this.
26.7 miles — Highway 101
From the Pass the drive is 7.5 miles of twisting downhill and level cruising through miles of avocado ranches, which is always a nice way to end the adventure.
Author’s note
Ray Ford’s comprehensive guide to the West Camino Cielo trails and experiences mentioned in this article, is free to download here.
Also included is a Whittier Fire Gallery of images taken by Ray during and after the fire which illustrate the intensity of the damage along the crest and how close the flames came to seriously impacting Broadcast and Santa Ynez Peaks.
